Low MOQ for AD Metric Thread Bite Type Tube Fitting for luzern Factory

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TEE REDUCERS   PART NOMBER MPa ØO D. D1  D2   D3 L1 L2 L3 l1 l2 l3 S1 S2 S3 S4 bar AC10-06-10S S 10 06 10 34 34 33 17.5 17.5 18.0 22 17 22 17 630 AC12-08-08S   12 08 08 38 37 37 21.5 22.0 22.0 24 19 19 17 630 AC12-08-12S   12 08 12 38 38 37 21.5 21.5 22.0 24 19 24 17 630 AC12-10-12S   12 10 12 38 38 38 21.5 21.5 21.5 24 22 24 17 630 AC12-16-12S   12 16 12 42 42 43 25.5 25.5 24.5 24 30 24...


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Low MOQ for AD Metric Thread Bite Type Tube Fitting for luzern Factory Detail:

TEE REDUCERS

18

 

PART NOMBER

MPa

ØO D.

D1  D2   D3

L1

L2

L3

l1

l2

l3

S1

S2

S3

S4

bar

AC10-06-10S

S

10 06

10

34 34 33

17.5

17.5

18.0

22 17 22 17

630

AC12-08-08S

 

12 08

08

38 37 37

21.5

22.0

22.0

24 19 19 17

630

AC12-08-12S

 

12 08

12

38 38 37

21.5

21.5

22.0

24 19 24 17

630

AC12-10-12S

 

12 10

12

38 38 38

21.5

21.5

21.5

24 22 24 17

630

AC12-16-12S

 

12 16

12

42 42 43

25.5

25.5

24.5

24 30 24 24

400

AC16-06-16S

 

16 06

16

43 43 41

24.5

24.5

26.0

30 17 30 24

400

AC16-08-16S

 

16 08

16

43 43 41

24.5

24.5

26.0

30 19 30 24

400

AC16-10-16S

 

16 10

16

43 43 42

24.5

24.5

25.5

30 22 30 24

400

AC16-12-16S

 

16 12

16

43 43 42

24.5

24.5

25.5

30 24 30 24

400

AC16-20-16S

 

16 20

16

47 47 48

28.5

28.5

26.5

30 36 30 27

400

AC20-10-20S

 

20 10

20

48 48 46

26.5

26.5

29.5

36 22 36 27

400

AC20-12-20S

 

20 12

20

48 48 46

26.5

26.5

29.5

36 24 36 27

400

AC20-16-20S

 

20 16

20

48 48 47

26.5

26.5

28.5

36 30 36 27

400

AC20-25-20S

 

20 25

20

53 53 54

31.5

31.5

30.0

36 46 36 36

400

AC25-16-25S

 

25 16

25

54 54 52

30.0

30.0

33.5

46 30 46 36

400

AC25-20-25S

 

25 20

25

54 54 53

30.0

30.0

31.5

46 36 46 36

400

AC25-30-25S

 

25 30

25

61 61 62

37.0

37.0

35.5

46 50 46 41

400


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Low MOQ for
 AD Metric Thread Bite Type Tube Fitting for luzern Factory detail pictures


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  • PARTS LIST BELOW. Got this idea from u-tuber Approtechie. He has a lot of good ideas. Use schedule 40 white PVC pipe. I don’t have back up power here so this is my way of accessing my most convenient source of clean water if the power should go out for a long period of time. I used teflon tape on any threaded joints(probably not necessary). This cost about $70 to put together. It looks like from comments that pumping from water levels deeper than 50ft is a very heavy lift. So maybe not worth going deeper. Maybe Approtechie has an opinion on that considering he designed these himself. My only experience is with my own well which has a pretty shallow static water depth of about 11ft., pretty easy at that depth.
    Parts List (pipe sizes are listed by inside diameter)

    Outer Pipe Assembly-
    -One 11/4″ plastic foot valve(Lowes has them)
    -One 11/4″ adapter(slip x thread)
    -As much 11/4″ PVC pipe and couplings as needed
    -One 11/4″ x 1″ Tee(slip)- This is at the top.
    -One 11/4″ x 1″ Bushing(slip)- This goes into the tee.
    -One 1″ x 1/2″ Bushing(slip) Trim the inside of this one.- This goes into the previous bushing.

    Inner Pipe Assembly-
    One 3/4″ Plastic foot valve
    -One 3/4″ Adapter(slip x thread) Trim the nubs off of this one.
    -One 3″ length of 3/4″ pipe. Sand one end to fit into 1″ piston pipe.- Connects the piston to the adapter.
    -About a 3ft. length of 1″ pipe- this will be the piston.
    -One more 1″ x 1/2″ Bushing(slip). Don’t trim this one. Glue it to the top of the piston and glue the 1/2″ ram pipe to it.
    -As much 1/2″ pipe and couplings as needed(drill 1/4″ holes straight through this pipe just above the piston).
    -One 1/2″Tee(slip) + two short lengths of 1/2″ pipe with two 1/2″caps(slip) complete the handle at the top of the 1/2″ ram pipe.

    THAT’S IT….But for this design to work ,as seen, you MUST SEAL UP THE 1/2″ pipe so that water doesn’t go up it too much higher than the 1/4″ transfer holes. Certainly not all the way to the top(check out the Further Pump Explanation vid in this box).
    I capped the handle off completely in order to trap air inside the upper portion of the 1/2″ pipe so that I don’t waste energy lifting a lot of trapped water up and down. But mostly because it forces the water out the 11/4Tee which is where I want it to go. Otherwise it could come out the handle as well which I do not want. You could, instead of capping the handle off, block up the 1/2″ pipe just above the transfer holes by gluing a nickel into one of the 1/2″ couplings. This would accomplish the same thing and make the caps on the Tee unnecessary. It would also allow you to install the 1/2″ pipe one piece at a time, if you wanted to, without it filling up with water. I was a little worried that the trapped air in my pump would make the inner pipe too buoyant and rise up on its own so I drilled a hole in it about midway down to add a little weight. My well is pretty clean so I didn’t put any kind of filter at the bottom. Some wells might need a finer screen than the one that comes with the foot valve( I think I’ve heard of people using sack cloth for this but not sure). For larger depths it might help to make the piston longer, maybe 5ft.
    Youtuber sameggers1 did a great video of his deep well version

    Here is Approtechie’s video, a must see.

    My vid.-Further Pump Explanation http://youtu.be/XjGUdxSgosQ

    The accounts manager made a detailed introduction about the product, so that we have a comprehensive understanding of the product, and ultimately we decided to cooperate.
    5 Stars By Clara from South Korea - 2016.09.26 12:12
    Sales manager is very enthusiastic and professional, gave us a great concessions and product quality is very good,thank you very much!
    5 Stars By Jerry from Palestine - 2016.08.21 14:13

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